Uniqueness of Hungarian Wines

Tamás Czinki, the first Hungarian Master Sommelier

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Tamás has been a resident of England since 2013, and he currently  works as a Head Sommelier at the Michelin-star restaurant of Northcote Hotel in Lancashire. However, he has plans to return to Hungary soon.

How would you characterise Hungarian wine culture, and what are some of its core values?

Wine is an integral part of Hungary's national heritage. Each of the 22 wine regions has a unique local colour, which is able to develop and dynamically renew itself, keeping pace with the changing times, while also preserving age-old traditions and local values. Most producers are willing to change and learn, if necessary.

Hungary is a small player in the field of wine-making, yet is able to produce unique wines. What are the reasons behind that?

We have excellent volcanic soils, such as in Somló, Tokaj, Badacsony, Eger, the Balaton Uplands or Mátra, able to produce wines that are highly regarded abroad. Another way for Hungary to stand out in international comparison is through the unique insights of its winemakers, who are aptly exploiting the possibilities offered by different barrels and grape varieties.

Considering today's trends, which Hungarian grape varieties and styles do you think will stand the test of time?

There is a lot of exciting potential in Hungarian white wines. This is partly due to the fact that most of our native grape varieties are white. Since global interest in white wines has been steadily increasing in recent years, I believe these autochthonous varieties and terroir wines are looking forward to a promising future. Incidentally, global warming also favours these varieties. Among the many exciting grape varieties in Hungary, Furmint is especially versatile. It is one of the noblest grape varieties in the Tokaj wine region, and plays a dominant role in Tokaj-Hegyalja. Its neutral character reflects the terroir, while being an important ingredient in dry and aszú wines. Olaszrizling is cultivated in almost all wine regions of Hungary, especially around Lake Balaton. Its structure and character both make it clearly stand out on the international market. Moreover, Olaszrizling is a versatile addition to any cuisine, similarly to the Juhfark of Somló. But there is a growing worldwide demand for styles such as the light, fruity and rather spicy wines made from Kadarka grapes as well, and the restrained barrel use, moderate maturity and higher acidity of Kékfrankos wines also sell well in foreign markets.

From the aspect of gastronomy, which international dishes or cuisines are closest to Hungarian wines?

Since the wines made in Hungary are diverse and special, our reach goes well beyond the top tier of gastronomy. A Furmint or Somló wine goes perfectly with rustic dishes, offal or dishes prepared with sour cabbage. The Olaszrizling wines of the Balaton Uplands, with their sophisticated acidity, or a rich Hárslevelű are best served with different kinds of sausage. The fiery Juhfark has mineral and creamy undertones, and is a perfect drink after heavier dishes, which are preferred by so many nations. I would recommend a Bikavér for pork and game dishes, a sweet Szamorodni for goose liver or other spicy dishes, and the fresher and lighter Balaton wines for the easy-on-the stomach dishes prevalent in Italian cuisine. It goes without saying that the wines of any given wine region go best with local dishes. I would invite anyone who goes to Hungary to keep an open mind and try new things.

Interview by Sándor Németi

Please find more information on Hungarian wine at the links below.

Website: https://winesofhungary.hu/

Facebook: @winesofhungary.personally

Instagram: Wines of Hungary - Personally

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